Posts From September 2009
September 24, 2009
Wines to Match the Bocanova Spirit
EXCITING WINES AT BOCANOVA
MATCH THE DIVERSITY AND VERVE OF THE RESTAURANT'S PAN-AMERICAN KITCHEN
Look for the best from South America, the Iberian Peninsula, and the West Coast on the list at this exciting new Oakland establishment
Oakland, Calif., September 24, 2009-- Wine buyer David Fetcho employed a deceptively simple philosophy in constructing the wine program for Bocanova, the "Pan-American kitchen" just opened by Rick Hackett and Meredith Melville on the newly revivified Jack London Square in Oakland: present wines that will delight the diner by offering an exciting range of accompaniments to the meal.
"There will be no generic-tasting wines on the Bocanova wine list!" promises Fetcho. Focusing on Spain, Portugal, Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, California, Oregon, and Washington, he has chosen as many wines as possible from small, passionate producers, many of whom use sustainable, organic, or biodynamic practices. “These are wines that are true to their varietal sources, to their terroir, and to the committed vision of the winemakers,” Fetcho says.
Though such noble grape varieties as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Syrah make their appearance on the Bocanova roster, along with classics like Spain's Tempranillo and Garnacha and Argentina's Malbec and Torrontes, Fetcho is also eager to introduce restaurant customers to the finest vintages made from such lesser-known but superb cultivars as Verdejo, Godello, Mencia, Manto Negro, Tannat, Baga, and Touriga Nacional.
Among the unusual treasures on Bocanova's opening wine list are Andrew Rich Rousanne from Oregon's Columbia Valley, Los Bermejos Rosé from the Canary Islands, a deeply structured red version of Txakolina (the Basque specialty almost always seen in white form), several hard-to-find reds produced in Portugal's Alentejo region, and Bodegas El Porvenir de los Andes Tannat from the mile-high Cafayate Valley in Argentina.
David Fetcho, a native of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, has spent the past three decades here in California and abroad “tasting, studying, consulting with winemakers and importers, and just paying very close attention,” in order to develop a palate that Bocanova creator Rick Hackett calls one of the best he's ever encountered. “The wines I select are ones that teach me things,” says Fetcho. “They're like good poetry, touching you in ways that are beyond mere description. Even the Bible says that wine is a gift given ‘to gladden the people’s hearts.’ My primary duty as Bocanova’s sommelier is to make sure that every wine I present—from the least expensive wine by the glass to the rare gems at the top of the list—lives up to that standard." # # #
September 9, 2009
From Desert Mountainscape to Iconic Vineyard
Krupp Brothers Transform a Desert Mountainscape into a Napa Valley Vineyard Icon
When Dr. Jan Krupp purchased a 41-acre property high in the eastern hills of Napa Valley, he had no idea how many odds were stacked against him. A Bay Area internist with a green thumb and a hunger for the joy he once felt working his uncle’s Virginia farm, Krupp ignored the warning signs “presenting” on his barren acreage and paid attention instead to the property’s unplumbed potential.
It was 1991, six years before the breakout vintage of Napa Valley Cabernet on Atlas Peak and Pritchard Hill’s eastern mountain slopes – the year that launched Maya and David Arthur into the cult wine world. Jan had a desert mountain landscape on Atlas Peak and Pritchard Hill with no power, no known water sources and no legal right of access, yet all he could see was the potential buried beneath boulders and chaparral. It was more than just a feeling; Krupp had been immersed in garage winemaking long enough to know the shallow red volcanic soils of these south-facing slopes rising into and over the fogline were ideal for growing intense berries rich with mineral and mountain flavors.